Each stage follows the next with quiet diligence, preserving a craft deeply rooted in the coastal community through generations.
At this time of year, the Ca Na fish sauce village is not only vibrant with industrious activity but also a familiar stop for visitors from near and far. Travellers come not only to buy bottles of richly aromatic fish sauce infused with the taste of the sea, but also to listen to stories of time, sunshine, and wind, and of perseverance through countless stormy seasons to preserve a traditional craft at the forefront of the waves.
Under the traditional production process, anchovies are carefully selected after being caught at sea. Only the freshest batches are used for making fish sauce. The fish are mixed directly with salt at a ratio of three parts fish to one part salt, then fermented in wooden barrels or tanks for between three and five months.
Over the following 18 months, producers stir the mixture daily to allow it to mature gradually. Once it reaches the required standard, the sauce is extracted, blended to the declared protein level, and bottled as finished products.
As Tet (Lunar New Year) approaches, production activity at Ca Na fish sauce facilities becomes even more intense. In the workshops, workers swiftly fill, cap and label thousands of bottles, ready to meet consumer demand and serve as Tet gifts.
However, behind this brisk pace, it lies a lingering concern. Many facility owners say that although the Tet peak season has arrived, purchasing power this year has declined significantly compared with previous years.
Standing thoughtfully beside barrels of fish sauce that were prepared months ago but remain unsold, Tran Van Tu, owner of Ngoc Tu traditional fish sauce facility, shared: “Tet fish sauce prices currently range from 120,000 VND to 300,000 VND per box of six bottles, depending on the type. However, sales have not met expectations. We mostly sell retail, and some days we cannot sell even a single box.”
Sharing the same concern, Tran Ngoc Duy, owner of Ngoc Duy traditional fish sauce facility, said that at this time in previous years, daily revenue reached several million VND, whereas this year some days bring almost nothing.
According to Duy, one of the main reasons is the completion of the North-South Expressway, which has reduced traffic along National Highway 1. As fewer travellers pass through, fewer stop by the fish sauce village. Despite carrying out various promotional programmes, the number of customers remains limited.
Tran Hoang Uy, owner of Chi Ninh traditional fish sauce facility, said that all products in the village have achieved OCOP certification. On this Tet season, facilities have busily bottled thousands of fish sauce bottles in various sizes, while also preparing small gifts such as 60ml bottles, handbags, and perfume for customers with a bill of 499,000 VND or more. The programme runs until the end of the first lunar month, in the hope of attracting visitors, however the quantity of customer remains lower than expected.
According to reporters’ observations, most fish sauce facilities have attractively displayed their goods, bearing the distinctive mark of a traditional coastal craft village, but the number of customers is very sparse.
For those who have devoted their lives to the craft, the greatest joy is not only selling products during Tet, but the “Ca Na fish sauce” brand is becoming increasingly recognised. However, this year that joy feels incomplete.
Le Luc, Chairman of the Farmers’ Association of Ca Na Commune, said that to serve the Tet market, local authorities have advised producers to prioritise quality, food safety, and brand credibility. “People understand clearly that to preserve the craft they must preserve their reputation. Although business this year has not met expectations, Ca Na fish sauce producers remain determined to stay committed to their trade,” he said.
Leaving Ca Na, carrying with the worries of the fish sauce villagers, however, we still believe that the flame of the craft here will continue to be preserved. For more than anyone else, Ca Na fish sauce makers understand that in each drop of shimmering amber-coloured fish sauce, there is not only the salty taste of the sea, but also the crystallisation of faith, patience, and hope for each new spring - new fishing season so that traditional Ca Na fish sauce continues to accompany the joy of every household whenever Tet arrives.
