Aspiration to revitalize traditional Ao Dai

Inspired by their love for Hue's culture, fashion designer couple Hoang Kim Ngoc Uyen Nhi, born in 1992, An Cuu Ward, Hue City, have incorporated imperial motifs and images of historical monuments into linen Ao Dai.

Hoang Kim Ngoc Uyen Nhi hand-paints an Ao Dai.
Hoang Kim Ngoc Uyen Nhi hand-paints an Ao Dai.

After four years of establishment and development, LINDA Design has not only created fashion products with a distinctive identity but has also told stories of heritage through every stitch and brushstroke. The creativity and dedication of these young artisans have contributed to enhancing the value of the traditional Ao Dai.

A distinctive path

With the desire to preserve the cultural values of her homeland, Uyen Nhi (commonly known as Linda Hoang) has created Ao Dai designs with a fresh and emotionally rich character. At first glance, LINDA's Ao Dai feature a looser and more spacious silhouette than the classic Ao Dai.

Nhi explained that there are two methods for incorporating patterns and images onto an Ao Dai: hand embroidery and hand painting. Each method requires its own meticulous craftsmanship. With hand embroidery, the overall garment becomes heavier because of the additional weight of coloured threads. Completing one design takes between seven and ten days. With hand painting, the production time is shortened and the garment is lighter.

"Whichever method we use, our process always ensures close consultation with the customer. When a customer places their trust in us to create a one-of-a-kind Ao Dai, every brushstroke and every embroidered stitch must achieve the highest possible level of perfection and refinement," shared Nguyen Ngoc Quang (born in 1991, Nhi's husband).

Recently, the Ao Dai market in Hue has been moving towards practicality, making garments easier to wear on various occasions. Previously, when people mentioned the Ao Dai, many immediately thought of formal ceremonial events. However, from both artistic and practical perspectives, LINDA Design's Ao Dai have softened those perceptions.

"Customers may request either a formal or a free-spirited, relaxed Ao Dai style, and we are able to meet their wishes by innovating and redesigning traditional motifs such as dragons, dragon-horses, lotus flowers and others. My visits to Hue's historical sites have inspired many design ideas. Numerous imperial images have become decorative motifs on our linen Ao Dai," Nhi said.

Over the past four years, customers coming to LINDA Design have generally wished to own an Ao Dai bearing their personal signature. They are discerning customers with an appreciation for aesthetics, willing to wait a long time to receive an Ao Dai that fully meets their expectations.

Speaking about her artistic journey on the foundation of the traditional Ao Dai, Uyen Nhi regards it as a way of life. While searching for design inspiration at ancient monuments, she found that some decorative patterns had faded over time. The need for historical accuracy encouraged her to consult numerous ancient reference materials.

This process has been quiet, gradual and meticulous. Every imperial motif carries its own cultural value. When incorporated into Ao Dai designs, these motifs serve not only as decoration but also as a source of pride in Hue's cultural heritage.

Elevating ancient motifs

When a customer requested two dragons embroidered onto a red Ao Dai, they did not want a conventional design but instead asked for unique personalised elements to be incorporated. Nhi regarded this as an enjoyable challenge.

"Through conversations with our customers, we gradually understand their personalities and expectations. That is an important step because, when creating the design, every line and every detail must accurately reflect the customer's character," Nhi shared.

When incorporating images of the ancient imperial capital into an Ao Dai, emotions strongly influence the way the motifs are painted or embroidered. For example, the traditional Hue long ma image is rather rugged, with details expressing strength and muscularity. If the original dragon-headed horse were reproduced exactly on an Ao Dai, it would reduce the garment's graceful elegance. Uyen Nhi therefore redesigned certain details while still preserving the original symbolic values of the dragon-horses.

Today, the image of Hue's traditional Ao Dai has gradually spread and gained popularity among young people. Building a community passionate about Ao Dai inspired by Hue's imperial style is LINDA Design's long-term objective. Through workshops and craft fairs, the story of reinventing the Ao Dai has gradually become familiar to younger generations.

"With that in mind, we regularly bring LINDA Ao Dai to participate in the Hue Community Ao Dai Week. I still remember every word of encouragement from the organisers of Viet Nam Summer Fair 2022 (the first cultural industries festival in Viet Nam). It served as a bridge connecting the traditional Ao Dai with young people in Viet Nam as well as international friends," Nhi expressed.

To ensure the sustainable development of handcrafted Ao Dai, LINDA Design believes it is essential to diversify its product range, using smaller products to support larger ambitions. Recently, images of mythical creatures and Hue lotus flowers have been incorporated into sportswear (for athletes) and children's clothing.

In addition, Nhi and her husband design and hand-embroider decorative motifs onto sets of four embroidered wall scrolls. These hand-embroidered wall scrolls have received numerous orders because they are easy to display in modern homes while harmoniously combining traditional aesthetics.

Tang Sang, who is living in Japan, is a regular customer of LINDA Ao Dai. As someone who appreciates the decorative motifs of the ancient imperial capital, Tang Sang provided several basic requirements regarding colours and design.

After Quang (Nhi's husband) completed the sketch and digital design, Nhi finished embroidering the dragon motif. The Hue-style Ao Dai was then exported to Japan. The image of the Vietnamese Ao Dai reaching the world has affirmed the outstanding craftsmanship and exceptional creativity of artisans from Hue.

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